The Road to Hue
This week’s journey takes us through the Annamite Mountains to the ancient imperial capital of Hue pronounced hoo-ay which needs some practice or no-one has a clue where you are talking about. Having mastered the pronunciation, our trip by car begins which we have chosen over the $5 train journey with wooden seats guaranteed to numb
most of your body by the end of the journey. Passing Da nang we begin the climb
through the Van Hai pass which translated means sea clouds. The area is renowned for the cloud and mist making the name highly appropriate but today we are incredibly lucky to have wonderful clear skies and uninterrupted views.
This area provided a natural divide for north and south Vietnam and the old remains of fortification posts are still evident as we journey up the twisting roads to reach 1600ft. For the first time in Vietnam we see no motorbikes and as we reach the Van Hai tunnel we understand why, the tunnel, the longest in South East Asia at 6.3km is closed to motorbikes but you can leave your bike and take the shuttle through the tunnel for about $1, although I'm not sure what you do when you reach the other side with no bike. The building of this tunnel reduced the journey to Hue by about 20km and some of the most perilous road on the journey. Many of you may be familiar with this part of the journey as it was featured on the Vietnam Top Gear special.
most of your body by the end of the journey. Passing Da nang we begin the climb
through the Van Hai pass which translated means sea clouds. The area is renowned for the cloud and mist making the name highly appropriate but today we are incredibly lucky to have wonderful clear skies and uninterrupted views.
This area provided a natural divide for north and south Vietnam and the old remains of fortification posts are still evident as we journey up the twisting roads to reach 1600ft. For the first time in Vietnam we see no motorbikes and as we reach the Van Hai tunnel we understand why, the tunnel, the longest in South East Asia at 6.3km is closed to motorbikes but you can leave your bike and take the shuttle through the tunnel for about $1, although I'm not sure what you do when you reach the other side with no bike. The building of this tunnel reduced the journey to Hue by about 20km and some of the most perilous road on the journey. Many of you may be familiar with this part of the journey as it was featured on the Vietnam Top Gear special.
The Perfect Oasis
We start to descend and find ourselves in a wonderful fishing village called Lang Co which means village of storks. Arriving at the most scenic of beaches, there is just miles of white sand in either direction backed by the mountains we have just crossed. Even though it is only breakfast time, we feel we have to try their super fresh seafood from
this morning’s catch and end up eating, noodles, mussels and arca. I would explain what arca is but even after searching the Internet I am still no wiser, all I can say it is like a curved white mussel with slightly chewy shellfish. We soak up this wonderful view and are even tempted to grab a deck chair on the
beach like a couple of pensioners.
this morning’s catch and end up eating, noodles, mussels and arca. I would explain what arca is but even after searching the Internet I am still no wiser, all I can say it is like a curved white mussel with slightly chewy shellfish. We soak up this wonderful view and are even tempted to grab a deck chair on the
beach like a couple of pensioners.
The Imperial Capital
As the journey continues, we pass the largest lagoon in South East Asia before ascending over the Phuoc Thong pass. This lagoon is over 70km and over half a million people make their livelihood from the abundant fish, shrimp and oysters in its waters.
This magical journey takes us about 3 hours before we reach the ancient imperial capital of Hue. The city was the imperial capital of the Nguyen dynasty from 1802 - 1945 and the national capital during this time, before the abdication of Bao Dai in 1945 and a communist government
was formed. The city is built along the banks of the Song Huong or Perfume River.
This magical journey takes us about 3 hours before we reach the ancient imperial capital of Hue. The city was the imperial capital of the Nguyen dynasty from 1802 - 1945 and the national capital during this time, before the abdication of Bao Dai in 1945 and a communist government
was formed. The city is built along the banks of the Song Huong or Perfume River.
Entering the Citadel
As usual I have an itiniery of what we will be doing for the next 3 days much to Alan's despair but the soaring heat of 95 degrees is proving challenging and we feel lost without our wheels, so we hire 2 motorbikes and begin our exploration. First stop has to be the landmark Citadel.
The Citadel is built overlooking the Perfume river and is surrounded by a 10km perimeter wall built 2 m thick to keep out the peasants and attacking armies I assume. Today swarms of motorbikes drive through the old gates and into the Citadel where life is now firmly rooted in the 21st century. Overshadowing this modern scene is the Imperial City with its 2.5m perimeter walls largely undamaged despite the conflict they have seen. Out front the Forbidden City is flanked by huge brass cannons representing the 4 seasons and 5 elements and a 37m flag pole dwarfing everything around it.
The Citadel is built overlooking the Perfume river and is surrounded by a 10km perimeter wall built 2 m thick to keep out the peasants and attacking armies I assume. Today swarms of motorbikes drive through the old gates and into the Citadel where life is now firmly rooted in the 21st century. Overshadowing this modern scene is the Imperial City with its 2.5m perimeter walls largely undamaged despite the conflict they have seen. Out front the Forbidden City is flanked by huge brass cannons representing the 4 seasons and 5 elements and a 37m flag pole dwarfing everything around it.
Inside the Forbidden City
The imperial city was designed and built by the emperor Gia Long and uses the rules of Chinese geomancy in its design. This Imperial City became the home of the 13 emperors and the surrounding areas of Hue house magnificent tombs for these emperors although there are only 7 tombs as the remaining emperors died in exile or disgrace.
As we enter the Imperial City I feel like a princess coming home, but the reality of being a woman in this era is quickly shattered, one of the most famous emperors Tu Duc had 104 wives and numerous concubines but interestingly no children. As we explore the watch tower an elaborate pavilion where the emperor sat on state occasions above the pavilion, we find a concealed staircase leading to a room where the women could watch through finely carved grills. Not seeming quite so romantic now but I intend to continue my oriental princess for a day dreams.
Inside the imperial city is the Purple Forbidden City where no man could enter except the emperor, punishment for trespass was death. The only others allowed were the queen, ranks of concubines, female servants and court eunuchs.Within the Forbidden City there is a theatre, library, endless pavilions and ponds, temples to worships various ancestors and the queen mother’s residence, and so despite all this wealth and power you still had to have your mother in law living with you !!
Our visit to the Imperial City is magical and with few tourists around at this time of year we were almost the only people there so it was easy to imagine myself in a small pavilion with little maids cooling me with fans dressed in regal finery and no interruptions from a husband with 103 other wives to keep him busy but reluctantly we must re-join the real world.
As we enter the Imperial City I feel like a princess coming home, but the reality of being a woman in this era is quickly shattered, one of the most famous emperors Tu Duc had 104 wives and numerous concubines but interestingly no children. As we explore the watch tower an elaborate pavilion where the emperor sat on state occasions above the pavilion, we find a concealed staircase leading to a room where the women could watch through finely carved grills. Not seeming quite so romantic now but I intend to continue my oriental princess for a day dreams.
Inside the imperial city is the Purple Forbidden City where no man could enter except the emperor, punishment for trespass was death. The only others allowed were the queen, ranks of concubines, female servants and court eunuchs.Within the Forbidden City there is a theatre, library, endless pavilions and ponds, temples to worships various ancestors and the queen mother’s residence, and so despite all this wealth and power you still had to have your mother in law living with you !!
Our visit to the Imperial City is magical and with few tourists around at this time of year we were almost the only people there so it was easy to imagine myself in a small pavilion with little maids cooling me with fans dressed in regal finery and no interruptions from a husband with 103 other wives to keep him busy but reluctantly we must re-join the real world.
The Emperor's Tomb
We visit the royal tomb of Tu Duc about 10km from town the next day and find a huge estate and gardens built entirely for his remains.
In Hue Buddhism is more serious than anywhere else in the country with more monasteries and temples than anywhere else including the nation’s most famous monks but after several stops along the journey to visit these I could definitely sense that Alan has overdosed on temples and tomorrow's itinerary needed some adjustment.
In Hue Buddhism is more serious than anywhere else in the country with more monasteries and temples than anywhere else including the nation’s most famous monks but after several stops along the journey to visit these I could definitely sense that Alan has overdosed on temples and tomorrow's itinerary needed some adjustment.
Raining in Hue
So this is how on the 3rd day after a rainy start we find ourselves on the way to visit a nearby village that makes incense and the famous conical hats ”Non La” worn so
extensively in Vietnam. We are about 5km out of town when the rain begins again
and we have no option but to stop and buy raincoats which magically appear in every shop and at every roadside stall at the first sight of rain. Having previously vowed never to be seen in one of these I have no choice as the rain becomes a heavy storm. Trying my best to select the most stylish offering I pay 15p for a pinked checked raincoat !!!! Continuing a little further we realize we have no choice but to stop as the rain is now horrendous and we take shelter in a little roadside shop with an old lady who helps us dry off. Amazingly she is from the village we were heading to and she makes incense sticks and conical hats.....so begins our lessons as the rains continue to flood the roads. Her displays of the coloured bamboo sticks used to make the incense look amazing and she shows us how each bamboo stick is coated in special clay and sprinkled with cinnamon or sandalwood spices for fragrance individually by hand. Using her special wooden flatiron she skilfully makes the incense sticks in seconds......now my turn.......oh not as simple as she made it seem, my attempt is mis-shaped and likely to fall off the stick at any time.
extensively in Vietnam. We are about 5km out of town when the rain begins again
and we have no option but to stop and buy raincoats which magically appear in every shop and at every roadside stall at the first sight of rain. Having previously vowed never to be seen in one of these I have no choice as the rain becomes a heavy storm. Trying my best to select the most stylish offering I pay 15p for a pinked checked raincoat !!!! Continuing a little further we realize we have no choice but to stop as the rain is now horrendous and we take shelter in a little roadside shop with an old lady who helps us dry off. Amazingly she is from the village we were heading to and she makes incense sticks and conical hats.....so begins our lessons as the rains continue to flood the roads. Her displays of the coloured bamboo sticks used to make the incense look amazing and she shows us how each bamboo stick is coated in special clay and sprinkled with cinnamon or sandalwood spices for fragrance individually by hand. Using her special wooden flatiron she skilfully makes the incense sticks in seconds......now my turn.......oh not as simple as she made it seem, my attempt is mis-shaped and likely to fall off the stick at any time.
The Non La
This amazing little lady has 5 children who she sends to school with her earnings from this trade and her conical hats. Next she shows us how to make the conical hats and we are amazed to find that hats made in Hue when held up to the light feature pictorial scenes or poems. Again this is a vastly manual process with the layers of bamboo below and above the hand cut pictures before it is fixed in place. All of this work and the final product are normally sold for just $1-$2.
So of course we leave our little shelter with bags full of local items for everyone we know.
So of course we leave our little shelter with bags full of local items for everyone we know.
Leaving Hue after 3 days we have had a wonderful time and vow to return if only to complete my original itiniery......so the only thing between us and home is the scenic journey back across the mountains