Beach Life
So having decided to live at the beach this week’s update can only be about beach life. With summer now upon us and the heat during the day approaching unbearable the best place to escape to is our local beach at An Bang. The entire village is built alongside the beach and therefore it is no surprise that much of local life revolves around it. As I have mentioned previously most of the village rely on fishing for their livelihood and like most countries this profession faces the daily challenges of fishing restrictions, depleting stocks and the dangers of the sea. But for generations these families have lived in the village and remember the times before the bridge to Hoi An was built and the town only reachable by boat.
The visitors
Today life at the beach combines local livelihoods with relaxation. Arrive at the beach early morning from 5am and you will be surprised to see a bustling scene with fishermen unloading their morning catch together with families and friends walking, exercising and relaxing. The cool of the early morning beckons and friends meet for breakfast and to catch up on the latest news.
The heat of the day sees the locals leave for work, school or just to escape the already encroaching heat. The next group to arrive are the tourists to sun worship and enjoy this idyllic spot. Most tourists do not know about this beach so it tends to be the independent backpacker on a budget of $1 a day complete with all their worldly possessions in their bags or those on cycling tours who frequently make this their lunch stop as they explore the sights of the area. All have the common goal to be just a little pink from the sun so they can wear it like a badge of honor on their return home as if proof of traveling to warmer
climates.
The heat of the day sees the locals leave for work, school or just to escape the already encroaching heat. The next group to arrive are the tourists to sun worship and enjoy this idyllic spot. Most tourists do not know about this beach so it tends to be the independent backpacker on a budget of $1 a day complete with all their worldly possessions in their bags or those on cycling tours who frequently make this their lunch stop as they explore the sights of the area. All have the common goal to be just a little pink from the sun so they can wear it like a badge of honor on their return home as if proof of traveling to warmer
climates.
Family Time
Late afternoon is when the beach really comes alive as the locals return when the sun starts to go down. Children quickly escape their school uniforms and run to the beach. Teenagers swim in their jeans because it's cool and children in their pants despite the little lady at the entrance with her innovative swimwear rental stall. You can rent the latest fashion for only 30p (well maybe not the latest). Women from the village emerge with their cooking equipment and set up stall on the beach to prepare their food to sell.
Loyal daughters help to set up the stall and lay out the mats on the sand when they wish they were swimming with friends. Fathers sit by their fishing boats mending their nets and watching the tide with their comrades, small sons sit amongst them to hear their stories and wish that they were big enough to join their dads at sea. Elsewhere men are mending the bamboo parasols that adorn the beach using the skills handed down through generations.
Loyal daughters help to set up the stall and lay out the mats on the sand when they wish they were swimming with friends. Fathers sit by their fishing boats mending their nets and watching the tide with their comrades, small sons sit amongst them to hear their stories and wish that they were big enough to join their dads at sea. Elsewhere men are mending the bamboo parasols that adorn the beach using the skills handed down through generations.
Sunset Scenes
An improvised volleyball net is hastily erected and the game begins with just one token girl at the back who hardly ever gets a touch of the ball and is the nominated ball fetcher but still turns up everyday to play.
As the sun sets the restaurants fill up with extended families and friends but many just enjoy the local cooking for sale on the beach and take a mat on the sand to enjoy the evening air. Expats arrive to witness this magical scene and catch up over a few drinks.
The sea continues to be filled with a myriad of colors from the people as everyone cools off from another overwhelmingly hot day, a few children wear life jackets and the beach is continuously patrolled by 5 lifeguards as drowning is a serious problem in Vietnam where most people cannot swim. The government is now addressing this serious problem and in partnership with schools and some charities like Vietswim which aims to teach 1500 children to swim this year in the Hoi An area.
As the sun sets the restaurants fill up with extended families and friends but many just enjoy the local cooking for sale on the beach and take a mat on the sand to enjoy the evening air. Expats arrive to witness this magical scene and catch up over a few drinks.
The sea continues to be filled with a myriad of colors from the people as everyone cools off from another overwhelmingly hot day, a few children wear life jackets and the beach is continuously patrolled by 5 lifeguards as drowning is a serious problem in Vietnam where most people cannot swim. The government is now addressing this serious problem and in partnership with schools and some charities like Vietswim which aims to teach 1500 children to swim this year in the Hoi An area.
The Beach Characters
As ever the beach contains its own set of colorful characters, the 2 wonderful old ladies both over 80 who persistently sell bags of peanuts to the tourists daily, the newspaper sellers who are disabled from agent orange but always ready to smile and barter with me as I try to get a cheaper price from them, Susan or real name Sen who sells an amazing array or local
handicrafts whilst her husband stays home with her 8 month baby and finally the “Pyjama Man” who arrives at the beach pyjama clad every day.
handicrafts whilst her husband stays home with her 8 month baby and finally the “Pyjama Man” who arrives at the beach pyjama clad every day.
Magical Moments
As the light fades, the glow behind the nearby Cham Islands and Son Tra peninsular at Da Nang almost seem illuminated and mystical. The larger boats start to launch
and as this is squid season many have converted to squid fishing. Bright light brings squid to the surface and so these boats are equipped with up to 20 bright fluorescent lights to shine on the water, as the squid rises to the surface the fishermen literally scoop it out of the water.
So as we sit enjoying a glass of chilled wine at Banyan this is the captivating scene that unfolds before our eyes and makes this experience so magical that I don't think we will ever tire of it.
and as this is squid season many have converted to squid fishing. Bright light brings squid to the surface and so these boats are equipped with up to 20 bright fluorescent lights to shine on the water, as the squid rises to the surface the fishermen literally scoop it out of the water.
So as we sit enjoying a glass of chilled wine at Banyan this is the captivating scene that unfolds before our eyes and makes this experience so magical that I don't think we will ever tire of it.